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BlackSmith & Co.
World of Gemstones
Amethyst
Purple Quartz
Amethyst is the birthstone for February
Quartz, found in rocks of all ages and many ore deposits, is the most common of all minerals. Amethyst is the most highly
valued stone in the quartz group. It was believed to bring its wearer luck and protect against magic.
It is said to symbolize sincerity. It was used as a charm by the Greeks to prevent drunkenness!
Quartz is a very important rock-forming mineral, being an essential component of many igneous,
metamorphic, and sedimentary rocks. Amethyst crystals always grow from a base.
The most important amethyst deposits are in Brazil, Uruguay, and Madagascar.
Although it is considered a semi-precious stone, amethyst is consistently among the best sellers,
alongside precious stones such as sapphire, ruby, and emerald. No doubt, this is due to its very appealing purple color.
Other stones in the quartz group include:
Citrine - yellow to orange and brown
Smoky Quartz - often erroneously called "smoky topaz", gray-brown
Rock Crystal – colorless
Rose Quartz – pink
Crystalline varieties with inclusions:
Rutilated Quartz- contains rutile crystals
Tiger-eye - usually striped, brown and gold
Aventurine – spangled with mica or hematite, green or gold brown
Cryptocrystalline varieties:
Chalcedony - cloudy blue, white, gray
Carnelian - reddish brown
Agate - various colors, banded or layered
Onyx - agate, most commonly dyed black
Jasper - various colors, usually striped or spotted
Chrysoprase - pastel green to apple green
Bloodstone - (Heliotrope) very dark green with spots of red
Also:
Agatized wood - also known as petrified wood
Opal – although unlike any other -see entry under opal
Gemology:
Mohs’ Hardness: 7
Specific Gravity: 2.63-2.65
Chemical composition: SiO2 silicon dioxide
Refractive Index: 1.544-1.553
Crystal System: Hexagonal (trigonal); hexagonal prisms
EMERALD
Green Beryl
Emerald is the birthstone for May.
Emerald is the most precious of the beryl group (aquamarine is also beryl).
The name "emerald" seems to have come from the Persian word for "green stone".
Emeralds are usually considered to be more precious than diamonds. This is due to a large part to their scarcity. Beryllium, an element necessary to form emeralds, is very rare.
Because of the way they grow, emeralds often contain inclusions; bubbles, healing cracks, "carbon" flecks, and foreign crystals. These are not necessarily faults, and they can indicate the genuineness of the stone. A perfectly clean emerald is almost unheard of!
- The most desired color is deep green. A stone of this color is more valuable even with inclusions than a clean stone that is pale in color. It’s color is very stable, not changed by light or heat (unless it exceeds 1200F). The pigment that gives an emerald its fantastic green color is chrome or vanadium.
- Large deposits are found in Brazil, Columbia and South Africa. Sometimes the particular shade of green can indicate where it is from. Other sources include: Australia, India, Pakistan, Tanzania, the U.S. and Zambia.
For thousands of years, almost all of emeralds came from Egypt. "Cleopatra’s Mines" worked first by the Egyptians, then by the Romans and the Turks, were in nearly continuous operation from about 330 B.C. to 1237 A.D. "This monopoly lasted until the Spanish conquistadores arrived in South America in the early part of the 16th century. Shortly afterward, Jimenez de Quesada conquered what is now known as Colombia. Some years later, in 1558, the Spaniards located a mine at Muzo. The emeralds found there were breathtaking in both quality and size. The Spaniards promptly seized control of the mine and enslaved the local population using them to do the exhausting, dangerous work of digging out the gems. Within a few years, a veritable flood of big, almost flawless emeralds reached Europe, many of them finding their way into the hands of the Ottoman Turks, the Persian Shahs, and even the royalty of India. These stones were sculpted and engraved, becoming the foundation for many priceless jewel collections."-Awake! magazine February 22, 1999
- Care instructions: Emeralds are brittle and sensitive to heat and pressure. Care must be taken to avoid knocks and scratches. Never use an ultrasonic or steam cleaner for your emerald! A soft toothbrush with a mild detergent is very effective.
- Interesting fact: The "emerald cut" was developed for the sensitive nature of it’s namesake. Cut corners reduce the risk of the stone being chipped.
Emerald has been used for decorative purposes for thousands of years. They have beautified crown jewels and adorned some of the oldest royal dynasties. Emerald’s spellbinding color, unmatched by any other stone, accounts for its enduring appeal.
Gemology:
Mohs’ Hardness: 7 ½- 8
Specific Gravity: 2.67- 2.78
Chemical Composition: Al2Be3 (Si6O18) aluminum beryllium silicate
Refractive Index: 1.576-1.582
Crystal System: Hexagonal (trigonal); hexagonal prisms, columnar
OPAL
Quartz Group
Opal is the birthstone for October.
In the Orient, the opal symbolizes loyalty and hope.
Arabs believed it came from heaven in flashes of lightning.
The name "opal" is derived from an Indian word for "stone",
and what a stone it is!
The outstanding feature of opal is it’s opalescence, a rainbow-like iridescence which changes when viewed at different angles. The cause of this was theorized for decades, but finally discovered in the 1960’s under the 20,000x magnification of the electron microscope. Tiny spheres (.001 mm.) of a mineral called cristobalite (see "little known facts", below) layered in silica jelly cause the interference appearances.
Precious opal can be divided into several categories:
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- Hydrophane Opal- which becomes more transparent in water
- Flash opal- Opal with sudden flashes of brilliant color
- Black opal- Precious opal with dark gray, blue, or green background that accentuates color play
- Milk opal- Opal with brilliant coloring on a white, milky background
- Boulder opal- Opal that is naturally attached to the rock it was formed in, which is of a different chemical makeup
- Opal matrix- Ironstone with thin veins or flecks of precious opal
- Fire opal- Transparent opal of red or orange, showing no flashes of color, it is often facetted
The most valuable opals will have a fantastic play of color without "dead" spots or "crazing" (internal fractures). Large pieces of good quality opal command high prices. Very thin pieces of opal are sometimes cemented to a backing of common opal or black onyx, this is a "doublet". These are not as valuable as regular opals of the same size, though they can be just as beautiful viewed from the top. When the opal is even thinner, a clear top layer of quartz is added to the doublet, creating a "triplet".
Large deposits of opal are found in Australia. The staggering quantity mined there has completely eclipsed all other countries. Other places opal is mined: Brazil, China, Guatemala, Honduras, Hungary, Japan, and the U.S.
Care instructions: Opal is a medium to soft stone, so care should be taken to avoid scratching it. Never use abrasives to clean it, we had a customer who was actually told to polish her opal with Ajax! A soft toothbrush and mild soap work best. If your opal is set in a ring, take it off when you do rough work with your hands. Opal is sensitive to pressure, acids, alkalis, and heat. An opal can contain up to 30% water and high temperatures can evaporate the water.
Little known fact: Cristobalite is a mineral also found in lunar rocks, interesting...
No two opals are identical. It is an example of a soft gemstone which, because of its unparalleled beauty, has all the value of a much harder and more durable stone. The care it requires is certainly worth owning such a unique thing of beauty.
Gemology:
Mohs’ Hardness: 5 ½-6 ½
Specific Gravity: 1.98-2.2
Chemical Composition: SiO2..nH2O (silicon dioxide with a number of molecules of water)
Refractive Index: 1.435-1.455
SAPPHIRE & RUBy
Mineral name: Corundum
Only red corundum is called ruby. All other colors are considered sapphire. There is no definite color line where ruby ends and sapphire begins. If corundum is light red, pink or violet, it is usually called sapphire. If these colors were grouped as rubies, they would be viewed as inferior quality. In this way, they have individual values in comparison with the other colors of sapphire.
Ruby
Ruby is the birthstone for July.
It is named for its red color, Latin- Rubeus.
Rubies are rarer than sapphires, because the required pigment to make corundum red, chrome, is more rare than iron, the required pigment for sapphire.
Inclusions are common, and are not indicators of lower quality. The type of inclusion can often indicate source area. It is not possible to determine source area based solely on color.
Important deposits of ruby are found in Myanmar, (Burma), Thailand, Sri Lanka, and Tanzania.
Ruby is one of the most expensive gems, large ones being rarer than diamonds of comparable size.
Sapphire
Sapphire is the birthstone for September.
Sapphires come in many colors; blue, pink, purple, orange, yellow, green, colorless(white), and black. Orange-pink is called Padparaschah, a Sinhalese word meaning "lotus flower". In fine quality, this is the most expensive of sapphires.
Large deposits are found in: Australia, Myanmar, (Burma), Thailand, and Sri Lanka. Some other sources are: Brazil, Cambodia, Kenya, Malawi, Tanzania, and Montana, USA.
Sapphire is consistently a favorite with both men and women, the most popular color is blue. Unlike many gems, sapphire comes in a wide range of colors, making it an excellent choice for jewelry.
Fact: Corundum, (sapphire and ruby) is considered a "9" on the Mohs’ scale of hardness. Only diamond, at "10", is harder. This can be a little misleading, however. Corundum is only 1/140th as hard as diamond! Topaz, which is "8", next in hardness, is only 1/7th as hard as corundum! Simply put, no other stones have come between these in hardness, so they are listed in numerical order, from 1 through 10.
Gemology:
Mohs’ Hardness: 9
Specific Gravity: 3.99-4.00 Sapphire; 3.97-4.05 Ruby
Chemical Composition: Al2O3 aluminum oxide
Refractive Index: 1.766-1.774
Crystal System: Hexagonal (trigonal); dipyramidal, barrel-shaped, tabloid-shaped
TANZANITE
Blue Zoisite
Tanzanite’s unique color, a bluish-purple, makes it easy to recognize. It has a beautiful brilliance and depth of color. Originally viewed as a substitute for sapphire, it has come into its own as a coveted gem.
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- History: It was discovered in the early1960’s in Tanzania, East Africa. Tiffany & Co. named the blue zoisite "tanzanite" after it’s discovery location, and began marketing it in 1970.
- The only place tanzanite is found is in the Umba Valley, at the foot of Mount Kilimanjaro, in Tanzania.
- The highest quality tanzanite is very deep in color, a good mix of blue and purple and without visible inclusions. Larger sizes are not very common, and thus command larger prices. Lower qualities tend to be very light in color.
- Care instructions: Because tanzanite is medium in hardness, care should be taken to avoid scratching it. It can be cleaned with a soft toothbrush, warm water and a mild soap. Take care not to store it with other jewelry that can scratch it.
Fact: Tanzanite in it’s natural state, is most often an unattractive brown color. If you saw it lying on the ground, you probably wouldn’t be inclined to pick it up! Almost all tanzanite is heat treated (to temperatures of 752-932+ degrees F) to attain it’s stunning blue-purple color.
The owner of a fine tanzanite is very fortunate. Unlike many gems, tanzanite is found in only one place on earth. This in itself makes the gem a rare treasure. In addition, it displays beautiful brilliance and color.
Gemology:
Mohs’ Hardness: 6 ½ - 7
Specific Gravity: 3.35
Chemical Composition: Ca2Al3(O/OH/SiO4/Si2O7) calcium aluminum silicate
Refractive Index: 1.691-1.705
Crystal System: Orthorhombic; multi-faced prisms, mostly striated
TOURMALINE
Tourmaline is the birthstone for October.
It has a variety of rich colors greater than any other gem.
Important identifying features: High double refraction, or light entering the crystal and being divided two ways; and strong pleochroism, meaning the appearance of different colors when viewed from different directions.Tourmaline was first imported to Europe from Sri Lanka by the Dutch in the early 1700’s.
Tourmaline is often divided between "pink tourmaline" and "green tourmaline". However, tourmaline comes in nearly every color imaginable. Following are some varieties according to color:
Rubellite- dark pink to red
Indicolite- all shades of blue including blue-green
Dravite- yellow brown to dark brown
Verdelite- the most common tourmaline, green, in all shades
Schorl- black, very common, not valuable as a gem
Bi-color and tri-color tourmalines are also very interesting. These appear to be striped with distinct bands of color, typically pink and green or blue. Multi-colored tourmalines with an outer "skin" of green and a pink to red interior, are called "watermelon". When sliced and polished, that is exactly what they look like.
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- Large deposits are found in: Sri Lanka, Madagascar, Brazil, and Mozambique. Also found in: Afghanistan, Australia, Canada, the island of Elba, India, Myanmar (Burma), Namibia, Nepal, Pakistan, Russia, Switzerland, Tanzania, Thailand, and the US.
- The most desired colors are pink, intense red, blue-green and emerald green. It is of average hardness, so all the usual precautions apply, don’t use it to crack walnuts or knock on doors, don’t clean it with abrasives, store it away from things that can scratch. As with many gemstones, cleaning with a soft toothbrush and mild soap works very well.
- Science experiment: Tourmaline can become electrically charged by heating and subsequent cooling. One end becomes negative, the other positive, attracting small particles of paper, ash or dust.
Unlike many gems, high quality tourmalines can still be found in very large sizes. Its extensive variety of colors, and reasonable price makes tourmaline a very desirable stone for jewelry.
Gemology:
Mohs’ Hardness: 7-7 ½
Specific Gravity: 3.02-3.26
Chemical Composition: (NaLiCa)(Fe11Mg Mn Al)3Al6((OH)4(BO3)3Si6O18) aluminium borate silicate, complicated and changeable composition
Refractive Index: 1.615-1.655
Crystal System: Hexagonal (trigonal);usually long crystals with triangular cross section and rounded sides, definite striation parallel to main axis, often several prisms grown together.
Emperors and Jade
What is Jade?
Among the oldest of known gemstones, jade has been appreciated at many different levels throughout history: first as an object used in daily life, then in pagan times as an object of ritual. Later, it acquired economic status as an item of barter and wealth, and today it has become a medium of art and personal adornment.Jade refers, actually, to two chemically different stones: jadeite, a pyroxene or a silica-bearing mineral, and nephrite, an amphibole, or a ferro-magnesium silicate. Although different, they share many common characteristics. The Chinese were aware of the difference by the mid-1700's while, in Europe, the technical differences were first published in 1863. We regard both forms simply as "jade."Nephrite jade, which the Chinese grew to appreciate so deeply, was the form of jade that they first encountered in the Neolithic period. When jadeite jade was first introduced into China, it was called Fet'Sui or kingfisher jade because of the brilliance of colors it manifested and to distinguish it from the traditional nephrite form of jade. In time, jadeite eclipsed nephrite in terms of value, and today it is considered gem jade. Today's fine jewelry market uses jadeite jade almost exclusively; nephrite is generally valued for its antiquity, carving excellence and other historical considerations rather than its intrinsic material value. Interestingly enough, both the terms jadeite and nephrite refer to the kidneys because of early beliefs that jade was effective for diseases of the loins.Apart from its technical aspects, however, there is a magic about the stone that inspired cultures as diverse as the Chinese, the Mayans, even the court of Czarist Russia. Its charms elude precise definition; jade reveals itself in the language of myth and legend.
Is it fragile?
Next to "black diamond", Jade is the toughest of all known stones. This extreme durability (a result of its fibrous crypto-or microcrystalline structure) explains its early use by many cultures as tools for farming and hunting. No other stone appears in such a wide variety of forms: bangles, hololith rings, statuary cups, spoons and scepters. It is jade's unparalleled toughness that accounts for its wide variety of uses, and it is this very toughness that allows for the unmatched delicacy of carving one finds in jade. What other stone can be carved as a continuous chain from a single piece of material and endure as jewelry or statuary for centuries? Because of its toughness and hardness, jade even appeals to the aural senses, for its is said when "jade is struck, it rings true." Not only has jade been carved as bells, but its pictogram is thought to have been derived from an early jade bell in the form of three resonant pieces of jade supported by a string and a clapper.
It is this same durability that allows a family to pass on a cherished piece from generation to generation and elevates jade from the realm of an ordinary gemstone to a priceless heirloom.
Jadiete Vs. Nephrite how expensive is it?
Whereas most gemstones today are sold and evaluated in terms of their carat weight, jade is sold by the piece. In its finer qualities, jadiete can be among the most expensive stones in the world today. This is in keeping with how the ancients valued jade. It is said that one emperor traded a piece of jadiete for fifteen cities. Because of the rarity of fine jadiete material today, those items that inherently create waste are cut very infrequently. For example, fine bangles can command astounding prices and are never plentiful in the marketplace. Blacksmith & Co. is one of the top suppliers of larger wide gents style bangle that are extremel rare in the market place. It is the rarity of consistant materials and the material usage in manufacturing that makes the Blacksmith Emperor series jadiete bangle unique.
Modern nephrite, by contrast, is of far less value. Whereas a fine jadeite cabochon can range from several thousand dollars on up, the finest nephrite cabochon rarely exceeds a few hundred dollars. There is no rarity of nephrite, and this is reflected in the price. Antique nephrite carvings have value based on the antiquity of the piece, exclusive of material value alone.
Blacksmith & Co. Emperor series Jade
Blacksmith & Co. only supplies type A jadiete in its Emperor series gents bangles and jewelry accessories. All jadiete bangle and fine gents jewelry comes with a certificate of garantee. Blacksmith & Co. gaurantees the piece of jadiete jade as natural, untreated jadiete jade, commonly known as tyep A jade. We guarantee it has been neither color-enhanced nor poly-impregnated. Blacksmith & Co. warranties that the manufactured piece of jade is free of defects and will repair the material at no charge shold a defect be present in the material. It is because of this vast price differential between jadeite and nephrite that we recommend all appraisals clearly identify the material not merely as jade, but more definitively as nephrite jade or jadeite jade.
How is it carved?
In ancient times, a jade boulder was first cut into slabs by means of string embedded with a mixture of pig fat and quartz dust kept constantly wet with water. This process alone could take six months and more for an average size boulder.
Afterwards, a design would be inked in according to the dictates of the material. The uppermost consideration was always the best use of the material. Carving for carving sake was simply not done. Ideally, the carving would be elicited from within the rock rather than created by the carver. As color changes were encountered, patterns would change to accommodate this within the design. The piece would then be pierced with hollow reed drills, and then the carving accomplished with string and abrasive. The key is the abrasive. One does not carve jade as much as one erodes it, and each carver had his preferred mixture for cutting and polishing. All polishing was done by hand in many operations with successively finer grades of abrasives. Hand and foot powered arbors were also in common use at that time. Again, the exact form of abrasive used was a trade secret from shop to shop. Polishing was (and is) as important a step as the carving itself. All in all, a master carver could well spend years on a single piece depending on its size and level of intricacy. It is said that before the advent of power cutting tools, there were no poorly carved jades. The process was simply too laborious and time consuming to allow for errors.
Today, the process is very similar in many respects to the ancient one. Power hand-tools have replaced the reed-and-string drill, carborundum saw-wheels do the work of hand drawn bow-saws, and crushed garnet long ago gave way to corundum and then to carborundum in the nineteenth century. Modern methods have speeded up the processing of a piece from mine-head to window display. The quality available, in the medium to better pieces, is surprisingly excellent. Some pieces rival the work the late Ch'ing Dynasty at the height of the golden period. Hong Kong, the modern center for jade carving in the world, is teeming with third and fourth generation carvers producing excellent work. Mainland China, once the most prominent carving center, is again buying rough material at the the Burmese auctions, after a long hiatus.
Why is it carved?
When a piece of jade is carved, it is done with a twofold purpose: to create a pleasing, meaningful object and to remove imperfections in the material. Given two pieces of jade of equivalent size, color and translucence, one carved and the other smooth, the smoother piece is of a higher value. Of course, the value of a carved piece is dependent not only on the material itself, but on the manner in which the material is used. In a sense, it is a carver's function to remove the minimum possible amount of material, while creating a saleable, aesthetic piece.
What about dye and fakes?
As with other precious stones, there have been many attempts to enhance (and even synthesize) jade. Most of these have been detectable by standard and accessible gemological methods until the late 1980's when a new process of treating jadeite came about. This method involves bleaching an already-promising but stained stone, and then impregnating it with a form of plastic. The result is called "B" jade. Currently, infrared spectroscopy is the only test for the detection of polymer in jadite. Mason-Kay uses an infrared spectrometer to check the authenticity of our product and is one of the few firms in North America to do so.
Red Jade can be heated to increase the redness, but the usual result is a dull brown, and translucence is lost. This process, by the way, is irreversible. Lavender can pose somewhat of a problem; it has a long history of being dyed in a form of "blueberry juice." In some cases, dyed lavender can be spotted right off (in fractured material, dye will accumulate in fissures); but it is not always possible to detect dyed lavender by eye alone. Most dyes fade with time and exposure to sunlight. We recommend buying from a reputable source from which one has recourse.
Common jade fakes include serpentine (also bowenite), carnelian, aventurine quartz, glass, grossularite, idocrase and soapstone. This is not a complete list. Bear in mind that materials known as new jade, Honan jade, Korean jade, metajade and Sinkiang jade are almost never actually jade. The term jade is synonymous with "precious" in Chinese and thus "korean jade" may be no more jade than a "golden sunset" contains gold. Again, know your dealer.
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